Malta, the tiny archipelago in the heart of the Mediterranean, proved to be a fascinating blend of ancient history, stunning coastlines, and vibrant culture. This week-long escape offered everything from medieval cities perched on hilltops to crystal-clear waters that rival the Caribbean.
Arrival and First Impressions
Our journey began with an early morning flight from Zurich, landing us in Malta’s warm embrace. After picking up our rental car, we made our way to the Westin Dragonara Hotel, strategically located on the island’s northern coast. The hotel’s prime location offered easy access to both the bustling city center and the peaceful Mediterranean waters.
Exploring the Ancient Capital - Valletta
Valletta, Malta’s capital and a UNESCO World Heritage site, was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our trip. This fortified city, built by the Knights of St. John in the 16th century, is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture.
The Tarxien Temples - A Journey to Prehistory
Before exploring Valletta itself, we made a stop at the Tarxien Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site that offers a fascinating glimpse into Malta’s prehistoric past. These megalithic temples, dating back to 3600-2500 BC, are among the most complex and well-preserved prehistoric structures in the world.
Walking through the site, we were amazed by the intricate stone carvings and the sophisticated construction techniques used by the ancient builders. The temples feature elaborate spiral patterns, animal reliefs, and massive stone blocks that have stood the test of time for over 5,000 years.
St. John’s Co-Cathedral
The crown jewel of Valletta is undoubtedly St. John’s Co-Cathedral. From the outside, its austere facade gives little hint of the opulent interior that awaits. Once inside, visitors are greeted by a breathtaking display of gold, marble, and intricate artwork. The cathedral houses Caravaggio’s famous painting “The Beheading of St. John the Baptist,” considered one of his masterpieces.
The guided tour of the bell tower was particularly memorable. Climbing the narrow spiral staircase rewarded us with panoramic views of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities across the water.
Fort St. Elmo
Walking along Valletta’s fortifications, we encountered Fort St. Elmo, a star-shaped fortress that has guarded the Grand Harbour for centuries. While we didn’t enter the fort itself, the imposing walls and strategic position offered a glimpse into Malta’s military history.
The Silent City - Mdina
Mdina, known as the “Silent City,” is Malta’s ancient capital and one of Europe’s finest examples of an intact medieval walled city. Perched on a hilltop, this fortified city offers a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Valletta.
Walking through Mdina’s narrow, winding streets felt like stepping back in time. The limestone buildings, ornate doorways, and quiet courtyards create an atmosphere of timeless elegance. The city’s elevated position provides spectacular views across the Maltese countryside.
Fans of Game of Thrones will recognize Mdina as one of the filming locations for the hit series. The city’s medieval architecture and imposing walls served as the backdrop for King’s Landing in the show’s first season.
Dinner at Scala
Our evening in Mdina was capped off with dinner at Scala, a charming restaurant situated at the city’s edge. Dining al fresco while watching the world go by, we enjoyed traditional Maltese cuisine as buses and cars passed through the ancient gateways.
The Victoria Lines
A lesser-known but fascinating part of Malta’s history, the Victoria Lines are a series of fortifications built by the British in the late 19th century. These defensive walls stretch across the island’s width, offering both historical significance and natural beauty.
Our attempt to find the Victoria Lines near the Our Lady of Hodegetria Chapel proved more adventurous than expected. After a brief detour down an animal path (not recommended in flip-flops!), we successfully located the fortifications and enjoyed a peaceful evening walk along these historic walls.
Island Hopping - Gozo and Comino
A Bumpy Start
Our island hopping adventure began with an early morning boat tour to Gozo and Comino, but it didn’t start as smoothly as we’d hoped. We had booked what we thought would be a comfortable boat tour, but instead found ourselves on a powerboat that quickly picked up speed and began jumping over waves repeatedly as we left the harbor.
If you’re prone to seasickness or prefer a more comfortable ride, be sure to specifically ask about the type of boat when booking your tour. The powerboat experience can be quite intense and may not be suitable for everyone, especially those who are sensitive to motion or have anxiety about rough water conditions.
The boat made several stops at caves along the way, but the choppy conditions made it difficult to fully appreciate the natural beauty.
Gozo - The Sister Island
After the challenging powerboat ride, we were dropped off at Mgarr on Gozo, Malta’s sister island. Gozo offers a more relaxed pace of life compared to the main island. The island’s capital, Victoria (also known as Rabat), is home to the impressive Citadel, while the island’s coastline offers numerous secluded beaches and natural wonders.
The Blue Lagoon Experience
From Gozo, we took another powerboat ride to the Blue Lagoon on Comino Island. Despite the challenging journey, arriving at the Blue Lagoon was worth the effort. The crystal-clear turquoise waters are simply breathtaking, though the experience comes with a caveat - this natural wonder is extremely popular with tourists.
The lagoon’s beauty is undeniable, with its shallow, warm waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling. However, visitors should be prepared for crowds, especially during peak season. The limited shade means that renting an umbrella and beach chairs becomes almost essential, though it comes at a premium price - we paid 30 euros for two chairs and an umbrella.
Culinary Delights
Malta’s culinary scene proved to be surprisingly diverse and delicious. From traditional Maltese dishes to international cuisine, the island offers something for every palate.
Georgian Cuisine at Georgia Restaurant
One of our most memorable dining experiences was at Georgia Restaurant, where we discovered Georgian cuisine for the first time. The cheese-filled bread, reminiscent of a reverse fondue, and the dumpling-like khinkali were both delicious and unique.
Italian Excellence at Made In Puglia
Our best meal of the trip was at Made In Puglia Fratelli Campanella, where we enjoyed authentic Italian cuisine. The Spaghetti all’assassina and other pasta dishes were prepared to perfection, showcasing the strong Italian influence on Maltese cuisine.
Local Favorites
Other notable dining experiences included:
- Amora Restaurant in St. Juliens: A delightful lunch spot in the city center
- Salumeria Gardens in St. Juliens: Delicious pizza in a beautiful garden setting
- The Little Cucina in Valetta: Excellent roasted octopus and pasta dishes